3.29.2010

I surfed late today, the surf was in the 4-6 plus range and disorganized. I went out anyhow looking to score some big waves. I was able catch a few good waves. After a while I found myself all alone. My mind started to play tricks with me. The fog, rain and nasty conditions caused me to worry that something bad was going to happen. I am not one to surf alone especially in bad conditions. I sat on my board scanning the horizon looking to get a wave out, think of what not to do; that is not having a bad wipe out,  get caught by a rough wave or getting caught inside. Well I took a smaller wave thinking this would be an easy and safe way out, but the wave didn't break. I turned to witness an eight footer that broke within ten feet of me. I didn't have time to panic and duck dove with no problems, but did get pulled back into the inside section where I didn't want to be. I took a couple more on the head and finally got out. Well needless to say my last wave sucked and I was beat. I hope tomorrow brings better waves. The report shows that waves will be 4-6ft and off-shore winds. :)

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